Folk Nepal fabric making process
The start of it all...
Folk Nepals fabrics are made using the Jacquard Handloom in the International Factory. However, the production can also be done using the Powerloom which is used for large orders and fabric weaving.
In the initial phase, the yarns are prepared by arranging them in a cone - using a process called 'coning'. In the factory, this work is done by Ms. Indra Kumari.
If the yarns are already in cones and they need to be dyed first before weaving, they are reversed by using the 'hang machine' operated by Ms. Devaki Pandey.
The cone is then fitted into the handloom. This process is also called 'bobin making'. This is the process of making the thread flow easily through their own channels when weaving.
Weaving
The 'beam' is set, which is the actual size and pattern set for the fabrics. Once the beam is set it cannot be changed for another style unless the beam is destroyed. The weaver is then able to begin weaving.
Before the yarns in the loom finishes, the weavers adds another cone by carefully twisting the threads/ yarns. This is called 'twisting for beam continuation' and needs to be conducted with care so the beam is not affected whilst weaving.
The handloom weavers are Majid Ansari, Naim Ansari and Ratu Chaudhary.
The Powerloom is operated by Ali Ansari and Hari Pandey.
Dyeing
Once the fabric is made, it is then sent for dyeing. However, most of the fabrics are kept undyed and natural unless they instructions are received to dye the fabric.
The colours are adjusted in colour labs using azo free chemical colouration. After colour testing, the fabrics are finally boiled in a tanker with required colour. They are then dried in bright sunlight which plays a vital role in the inital colour absorbing process. If the sunlight is bright, the colouration will be perfect and bright!
...and finally!
Once dyed , the fabrics are quality checked and corrected before being ironed and packaged.
